DIY refugium aka veggie filter

[RTR]

The "skimmer" boxes, over-the-wall setups all are variants of constant-level siphons. "Constant-level" means that the water level in the higher tank does not change - well, at least not much - from power on to power off. All evaporation shows in the lower tank by reduction of its water level. In power-on function, any water beyond the overflow height (if internal) or beyond the standpipe (if external or drilled) simply flows to the lower tank. Simple U-tube siphons are not suitable for stacked tank systems, as they guarantee a flood.

[Ali]

I just went on the site and found out that the model I have is the Bak Pak protein skimmer/biofilter. I guess I'll just build my own refugium. How about this. The tank is located right next to a window wich leads to a balcony. Maybe I can set up a couple 55g rubbermaid bins stacked over each other filled with Hychainth and watersprite. With them being stacked I can easily add oxygen into the water by the waterfall effect of having a section of the top cut off and overflowing into the next bin and finally into a settiling bin filled with bio media and the pump running a hose through my window back into my tank. I can also have all of my heating inside the setteling bin. This sounds very good to me so tell me what you think.

[Bred]

Wouldn't you still need an overflow box to drain water from the main tank? The system you've outlined sounds a little sketchy. Remind me why you can't grow the plants inside the main tank?

[Ali]

I've read that Mbu puffs will tear plants to shreads? If this isn't correct than problem solved.

Also is it the same with Fahaka's?

[RTR]

My T.mbu tank was planted with Crinums. The fish removed a few, or rather bit them off to suibs in certain areas, but along one side and across 2/3 of the back it was solidly planted - that corner was the sleep spot.

The fahakas hardly bothered the plants (Swords and Crinums) at all. Just leave plenty of swimming room.

[Ali]

What if I get Anubias and floating water sprite to clear the tank of nitrates. I have a 10k bulb that seems pretty strong for the 60g. Anything else? I don't want to add a layer of fertilizer underneath the sand so if Anubias needs that then no way.

Thank You

[Jayhawk]

Water sprite does a good job of removing nitrates IMHO, and duckweed does a great job, too (and at most LFSs they'll give you some free).

Eric

[Ali]

What's the best one that is low maintence?

[RTR]

Anubias are too slow-growing to be effective nutrient sponges.

[Ali]

Then I guess I'll put the floating type plants such as watersprite and duckwead. Does Petco carry these plants? I know a good nursery I need to go to. Does anyone think that they would have these plants and pond snails available? They always have bullfrog tadpoles swiming in all of their ponds and anyone can take some.

Thanks

[Jayhawk]

I'm sure they'll have duckweed...it's everywhere there are aquatic plants (or so it seems). I've had a harder time finding water sprite. I tend to see it more often at small, LFSs.

Eric

[Bred]

Note that as long as you are floating plants, the overflow idea has gone out the window. It's just as well, though.

IMO, floating watersprite is ugly as sin. Duckweed looks really cool, but might starve out the light for any substrate-rooted plants you might choose to plant.

The lesson is: balance aesthetics with function. You want plants to metabolize oxidized and unoxidized wastes? That's function. You want your tank to look nice? That's aesthetics. Since you will not be injecting CO2 (I presume), I would start off unambitiously with Java Fern or maybe Bolbitis, tied to the decor (driftwood, rock, etc). Crinums, crypts, swords and so forth may be added if desired.

The point I wish to impart is that removal of nitrites is not (as RTR states) the be-all and end-all of fish keeping. There's more to it than that.. Veggie filters as such are IMO frivolous--they are not without their rewards (grow out of plants, culturing of snails, etc), but in practical terms they do not reduce the amount of required maintenance on the tank.

In my opinion, if your plants do not add to the overall appearance of the tank, they should not be in there.

[Ali]

I do half water changes every other day and partial water changes almost everyday due to the feces. I'm using up a lot of water and my bill is up and past 1500 a month. It is my intention to roll the waterchanges back to every other day since the plants need the nitrates to survive. Is this okay?

Thanks

[RTR]

I disagree strongly w/bred on this point. My central system (300 gallons, 10 tanks in the 20-40 gallon range) is largely planted, but without two tanks in the system being veggie filters (one submerse plants, one largely emersed), I have chronic alage issues. With two veggie filters, I have few to no algae issues. With one veggie filter I have singificant hair algae, with no veggie filters I have no chance of growing submerse plants. Sorry, but IMHO & IME that is a highly significant difference in tank appearance, operation, and in time required for upkeep, not to mention 24-hour oxygenation levels and improved water parameters. So with 20% of the sytem devoted to utility, my upkeep time is reduced to about 1/3 or less than the no veggie filter alternative, and the displays look sooo much better.

I suspect that folks who do not see the benefit of dedicated refugia have little or no experience with these specialized systems. Certainly it is possible to set a refugium and get nothing out of it. But it is equally possible to set a tank which never works. Neither says anything about whether or not the concept is valid.

[Bred]

pwn! I'm sorry RTR, I was discussing the use of plants as nitrate-removers and the need for water changes. Algae was never under discussion and I didn't even think about it. Nothing against the refugia!