The Puffer Forum

And in answer to your question , currently at 32ppt aiming initially for 30ppt.

ALL your fish need to be in QT, so the Crypt will die off in your DT w/o any hosts. FW dip will remove the cysts when the fish is really infested with them.

I only have one other fish in the DT, a goby which I'm currently attempting to trap too.

Although I understand that to break the cycle even 1 is 1 too many.

I'm glad you understand. PITA to catch all those fish in a reef tank, huh? I hope you didn't break too many SPS. I couldn't do it in my tank...

Yeah, a complete pain.

Lost a few nice frags but nothing that I can't replace really. The priority is the fish.

Looking at the two in the QT tank they are looking rather sorry for themselves. Keep telling myself that i've done the right thing and had I just left them in the tank they wouldn't have survived.

Slowly lowering the Sg jug by jug, it's gonna be a long night!

Just a small update.

The puffer seems more active this morning, having leisurely swims around every so often and has fed twice this morning. He still has "grains" on his fin.

Although it's a puffer forum, best not forget my Pyjama Carindal (he was my first ever fish) he's active and eating albeit little. The white bits in his eye appear to be coming out which I'm assuming is a good sign.

Salinity is coming down again slowly - aiming to finish today on 24ppt (from a start this morning of 30ppt).

Just a question, I'm adding RO to bring it down - should I be buffering this to get the Ph to tank level before adding it?

Ph is currently 8.0 (which is the same as the DT they came out of).

Thanks again.

Larry.

From what i've read, you can drop the salinity pretty quickly. I dropped my salinity to about 9ppt in about two days. Bringing the salinity up should be a slow process tho. I have a S&S puffer, damsel, and clown at these levels for several weeks and never seen any sign of stress. I was a bit surprised myself so don't be too worried about it. Also, it seemed to take a week or two for all the spots to fall. I believe ich as adults can survive hypo and it's the reproduction that fails. I buffed right after water changes but thats probably a personal preference. Sorry in advance for linking another forum but i feel this article helped me. http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fis ... facts.html

I never mind linking to other forums, as long as they are factual.

Hmm, I didn't realise hyposalinity for treating ich in marines could be as low as 10ppt. Thanks

Looks like I may have a few good candidates for a FOWLR - the two GSP's and the ytb damsel. Not sure about my three scats - they may need a pond of their own

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Here's a video I made of the "ich" just to have it confirmed really.

Thanks,

Larry

By way of update.

Just running now at 0.009 with the puffer doing really well and now eating more than ever

Just 8 weeks to go in the QT, let's hope he doesn't go stir crazy!!

I'd recommend 8 weeks from the last visible spot and not the date hypo started. Good luck.

The 8 weeks is for the DT to remain fallow. Hypo only needs to be 21 days after the last spot is gone.

Just by way of an update and thanks to everyone for their advice.

The hypo worked and cleared the ich and the stock (including my favourite - the Valentini (of course)) are doing fine back in the display tank and thriving.

I've learnt a lot but mainly how savage whitespot can be, it's relentless and needs treating immediately, there is no time to spare.

Thanks,

Larry.

Great job and i love the "treat immediately". Many people in my local forum recommend "waiting it out". I just don't understand that considering how safe and easy hypo is. Great job again...