The Puffer Forum

Welcome to the forum! We're glad to have you.

Since the bacteria/salinity thing has resulted in an uncycled tank, looks like you'll need to read this article: library/water-filtration/emergencycycle/

You have two options, I think. One is to go from here, with the large water changes. The other is to drip them back down to FW and get some bacteria from a friend's FW tank.

If you don't have tests for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, get them NOW. You will need them!

Full marine... I guess they had them confused with GSPs. Oops.

I have one F8 in a 30-long. I've kept two but they always get territorial and one dies. I'd put a hiding spot and return one.

Craigslist is a wonderful place to buy used aquariums.

Just got back home from work..


Read everyone's posts..

Before I get a chance to cycle my tank.. I was wondering if I took out the puffers, and put them in a bucket with filter/heater attached.. and then swapped out my cichlid sand for live reef sand.. I read that it instantly cycles your tank.. and its on sale for $20 or so at my LFS..

Is that a good idea? Or am I missing the point?

Oh and thanks for all the help everyone.. I really appreciate it. It great to see a nice online community like this.

No such thing as live sand in a bag. Even live sand from an established reef tank would not work, as your SG would be much lower for F8s. Now sand from a BW tank... See the emergency cycling article in our Library.

Just a quick reply to second most of what of what you have already been told, but also to clarify a couple of points.

First off, immature puffers tend to loosely school. It is a defensive trait in the wild with great survival value. But when puberty and sexual maturity arrive, so does territoriality. Protecting your home grazing area also has strong survival value. Some puffers spawn very frequently, so may be be more tolerant of con-specifics (fish of the same species), but many are only seasonal spawners and more or less territorial as adults. With two fish, there will always be a top-dog and an under-dog. This means that there must be sufficient area (floor space) and sufficient visual complexity (decor to block sight lines within the tank, but not so much from the viewer). The benefit of increased size also eases the maintenance of high water quality. Hobby tanks are not often so tall that the depth is significant for explorers such as snail and invert-eaters such as these puffers, they will helicopter around every object, deep or tall, examining the surfaces for prey. Depth is not much of an issue, but floor space does matter.

Salinity and/or osmolarity are directly related to survival time of F-8 puffers. They do best and live longest for me in low-density brackish water, say specific gravity of 1.003-1.005. Above that they might still approach ten years, but will average half again than figure in low-density water. A calcareous substrate (one that contributes calcium and magnesium salt ions to the water) is likely also beneficial. In the wild as adults they definitely visit and pass through full marine conditions. This does not mean that those are the best conditions for them in captivity. The fry are commonly caught in pure FW, or only barely BW, but that also does not mean that is the best long-term for them in captivity. Unfortunately, very very few LFS have any clue as to best or even sustainable captive conditions for any puffer.

Hey guys, I was able to find a 24g Aquapod, that comes with the filter, and basically everything included.. for 50 bucks, some one at my school is selling it.
The reason for the price however is there is a small crack on the back, about .5 inch that leaks some water, I assume it can be fixed with some epoxy..

The glass and everything else is intact.

What do you guys think, should I bite?

http://current-usa.com/aquapods.html

I would go for it, only if it 110% could be fixed properly!

You'd have to replace the entire panel.

I finally checked out the Aquapod today..

There are actually no visible cracks at all.

The girl selling me the tank, poured water into show me, and it a small dripping leak on the rear left bottom corner.

It seems like it could be something that could be easily fixed with some aquarium sealant...

I'm still a bit hesitant.. but it does seem like it could be fixed..


What do you guys think?

*Oh and on a side note..

If I do end up getting this 24 gallon Aquapod... my friend was interested in trading one of his GSPs for one of my figure 8.

The other figure 8 i'll be gifting to my girlfriend for her birthday next week.

I did read that the minimum was 30 gallons for a GSP, however seeing as how its more of a sophisticated tank, and thats its only off by 6 gallons, would it be alright to comfortably house a GSP in there? I plan on buying a great amount of plants and decorations as well..

And I have to be honest.. I really fell in love with my friends GSP... its only about 2.5 inches or so now...

Any thought, comments, advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for all the help!

30g is the bare minimum & I doubt that tank will be 24g when full of substrate, decor, etc. The gallonage is usually off by a bit. Perfect for 2 F8s though.

I'd reseal the whole thing to be sure.

Like pp said try craigslist I just got 55 gallon tank filter rocks fake plant the whole shabang plus a stand for $100 and the guy delivered it for. Give it a shot hope, it all works out.

Instead, replacer IE with Google Chrome or Firefox. No problems since I started using GC.

SxS316x wrote:hopefully having one of them in there should be ok?

if it's any consolation, my figure 8 has been living in a 10 gallon for about 7 months. i do 30 percent water changes once a week and check the levels in the tank frequently. he's happy, healthy, and about the same size as the ones you have. i do plan on upgrading to larger tank when the time is right, but in my opinion, a ten gallon should be plenty for now.

Wish i could help out man but im still raising my SG in my 55 back to 1.005, And it would still be too much of a diffirence for it to be a huge help.