New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Lil' Swimz$
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Yup! Oh, and you may not want to start a new post, this can be considered double posting. I'll PM PufferPunk (the board administrator) to move this thread instead.
Ha ha, he he! DAncE whEn yoU're HAPpppy! He he he! DAnce, danCE, DANCe!
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
![welcome [welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif)
Moving to Hospital forum.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
ammonia lvls are on they way back up. i took the biological filter out of a pre exiting tank and added it to my filter i hope that brings some stability tho this. is there anything i should watch out of in doing this
-
bigfatfish
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Keep water changes going. By doing this you are not taking away the good bacteria because the majority of it is in the filter & on plants/decs etc. As Pufferpunk says "the solution to pollution, is dilution"!
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
i turned the tank light off. he came out to swim around, and went back to bed. his breathing isnt frantic but might not be around the sleeping rate.
Water Test results are as follows. Last water change 9.5hrs
ammonia is very close to none i tested a stick from my other tank(cycled) and it matched perfectly
nitrites 0.1(liquid test to measure)
nitrates .20
Water Test results are as follows. Last water change 9.5hrs
ammonia is very close to none i tested a stick from my other tank(cycled) and it matched perfectly
nitrites 0.1(liquid test to measure)
nitrates .20
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
ammonia lvls seem to have slowed down. am i getting false hope or does this mean i might actually be getting close to start of some minor cycle... ive been keeping it as close to 0 as possible trying not to bother him but still changing water.
ive been testing lvls bi hourly now for a while the puffer still just lays around, if the tube even turns a little yellow ill do a 25-50% water changed i dont even think he knows im doing them. but he still doesnt seem happy. i added pics maybe some one can tell me if hes looking healthy. he just swims around and looks for another place to hide. this rock he likes. he needs a bigger tank maybe the 25g isnt enough. i hope he will be okay the little guy! ill keep looking for stuff on the web but this website has been the most help so far!
ive been testing lvls bi hourly now for a while the puffer still just lays around, if the tube even turns a little yellow ill do a 25-50% water changed i dont even think he knows im doing them. but he still doesnt seem happy. i added pics maybe some one can tell me if hes looking healthy. he just swims around and looks for another place to hide. this rock he likes. he needs a bigger tank maybe the 25g isnt enough. i hope he will be okay the little guy! ill keep looking for stuff on the web but this website has been the most help so far!
-
bigfatfish
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
They are one of the lurkers, so wouldn't be unreasonable for him to be looking for hidey holes. I think you just have to keep going as you are - sounds like you're doing a great job! Sometimes I think we just worry ourselves into thinking there is something wrong, so unless there are any obvious symptoms, stick with making the water quality perfect, your priority. Do you have readings for nitrite/nitrate - you should be able to tell where you are(ish) in the cycling process if you have all that information.
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Yep, those guys are a lurker species and he's probably looking for someplace to either bury himself or to hide in a cave of some sort. He'll probably be a bit grumpy and nervous until he can do that.
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
in between water changes. my nitrite lvls shoot up. my ammonia lvls stay around 0.2 and really have been steady or dropping maybe.
the nitrites worry me now because i get a higher and higher reading everytime i go to check. Ive been doin 50% water changes twice daily or more. and still checking lvls
ammonia 0.1 ~
nirtites 0.2 ~
nitrates 20 - 30 ~
when it reads around there i do 50% water changes. ive been trying to keep changing the water every 10hrs but if i see it necessary ill do it when ever.
just changed the water. my nitrites had a higher reading than ammonia.
the nitrites worry me now because i get a higher and higher reading everytime i go to check. Ive been doin 50% water changes twice daily or more. and still checking lvls
ammonia 0.1 ~
nirtites 0.2 ~
nitrates 20 - 30 ~
when it reads around there i do 50% water changes. ive been trying to keep changing the water every 10hrs but if i see it necessary ill do it when ever.
just changed the water. my nitrites had a higher reading than ammonia.
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
ive also read i can aid in the control of nitrites by adding warm air bubbles or a 'sponge filter'. true?
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
The more surface area (ie: spong filter), the more places for benefitial bacteria to develop. Never heard of the bubbles but they never hurt.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
bigfatfish
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Increased oxygenation of the water & raising the temp slightly can aid the cycling process. Obviously not higher than is advised for the Puffer. Nitrites will rise because the bacteria that are "eating up" the ammonia create the nitrites - this would suggest that the tank is cycling. Hopefully you will be able to keep up with the water changes & keep the levels down until the process is complete. I wish you lots of luck - keep us posted (between water changes!)
- Youngsir
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Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
my tank is at about 78F i have a sponge and biomax stones in my filter (and the biomax from my dads cycled tank). Also would a higher output filter help because the one i have is for a 20g but the tank is a 25g.
So now that i have these nitrites in my water that means bacteria is forming and working to remove the ammonia? What is a dangerous lvl of nitrites ive read 0.2 but it doesnt say that specificly for puffers. would removing the second biomax (the one from the cycled tank) slow these nitrites. Am I looking for the perfect harmony between bacteria and poop now?
Also how come my dads tank never reads any ammonia or nitrites?
my ammonia lvls are still low
nitrites have gone up again (0.1~) since the last water change. It was a 50% change so i'll wait a little longer before i do another.
puffy is sleeping. He lets me know when hes not happy. He will swim up and down the glass untill i water change.
thanks again ill be checking back every hour untill he's out of the woods! and well after
So now that i have these nitrites in my water that means bacteria is forming and working to remove the ammonia? What is a dangerous lvl of nitrites ive read 0.2 but it doesnt say that specificly for puffers. would removing the second biomax (the one from the cycled tank) slow these nitrites. Am I looking for the perfect harmony between bacteria and poop now?
Also how come my dads tank never reads any ammonia or nitrites?
my ammonia lvls are still low
nitrites have gone up again (0.1~) since the last water change. It was a 50% change so i'll wait a little longer before i do another.
puffy is sleeping. He lets me know when hes not happy. He will swim up and down the glass untill i water change.
thanks again ill be checking back every hour untill he's out of the woods! and well after
-
bigfatfish
- Fahaka Puffer
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- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 3:33 pm
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- My Puffers: GSP "Puffy" RIP old friend 1999-2009
GSPs "Flash" & "Lionel" - in a 55 UK Gallon Bow front Marine Tank with sump. - Location (country): United Kingdom
- Location: Devon, UK
Re: New Puffer and partly cycled tank. HELP!
Yes, if you have nitrites, that means that the bacteria are starting to convert the ammonia to a less toxic form. Nitrites ARE toxic though & now need to be converted by another type of bacteria into nitrates. In a cycled tank the ammonia & nitrites will ALWAYS be 0. We would expect the nitrates to be 5-20. The higher the filter turnover, the better for puffers. Certainly, if your tank is 25G then the minimum filter I would put on is one for that size tank & probably one for a 30 or 35g. Anything you add from another tank (provided it is healthy & cycled) will aid in your cycling process. If your Dads tank reads 0 for ammonia & nitrite, then it sounds like he has a cycled tank.
I have been doing a fair amount of research into the cycling process because my tank is cycling at the moment, but trust me, there is no exact time scale for each step to happen, so just keep monitoring.
I have been doing a fair amount of research into the cycling process because my tank is cycling at the moment, but trust me, there is no exact time scale for each step to happen, so just keep monitoring.
