Help! J-P's Set up

[Pufferpunk]

Maybe you should read RTR's story about keeping 2 fahakas together or where they can see each other:
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=151

[J-P]

Yep I read that... crazy stuff. I was hoping that enough cover and caves would eliminate that problem ... BUT (and there is alwasy one) I feel I should start off safe ... maybe a school of SAPs?

If I know what fish I am able to keep ... it would help in the design process. I can't get that school of Neon Tetras out of my head .. and repacing them with active little SAPs ... or possibly DPs

P.S
I printed off the entire Puffer Pedia and my wife and I went through it page by page.... we narrowed it down to maybe a half dozen ....

[RTR]

Brain-picking is what this is all about. Those who reply are trying to share their experience and the guidelines that work for them, to aid and guide you. But you have to remember always that our suggestions and advice are colored to some degree by our own preferences - we are not and almost cannot be completely unbiased. Our personal likes and dislikes affect our responses. I am aware of several of mine, and try to make sure that they are understood as viewpoints and not hard data. - I do not like what I disparage as "Noah's Ark Tanks" - all the fish, two by two, or so-called "community" tanks. To me there is nothing as difficult as setting a successful mixed tank, and most hobby tanks are much too small to house such groupings. My tanks are largely "species tanks", being set for one primary species, with some or a few other species in supporting roles. that i both preference and experience. I can keep small schools of schooling fish well beyond their normal life span in the wild, but in mixed tanks I cannot - the stresses and compromises of community tanks shorten the lives of hobby fish and I will not do it. That position is a mix of knowledge, experience, and pure personal choice. I don't keep tanks as biological decor - I like and want to study the fish I keep, and get to know how they operate in captivity. By learning about the critters and plants that I keep, I can keep them better - both the host (me) and the specimen (the fish or plant.) benefit in the long run, and that satisfies me. Certainly I lose fish. But I don't lose nearly as many as I once did, and I do try to breed and return to the hobby many more fish than I have killed through error or ignorance over the years. I also try to help novices, because that is simple paying forward for all I have gained personally from this hobby. The novice ha sto stay aware that all that are are told is at least a bit colored by the individual offering the advice, it cannot all be hard data, people are not perfect at that by any means, not even me.

All that said, pool and/or blasing and can be an excellent substrate for some tanks.

No substrate can inhibit algae. There are many, many forms of algae, most of which produce spores or spore-like reproduce particles which can be easily airborne. When you have a moderately or strongly lighted tank with dense plant growth in some areas, unpopulated areas will (not may) develop some form of algae - which one varies with the tank and water and nutrients and chance, but it will grow something. nature abhors a vacuum. every surface in your tanks ha a coating biofilm - some colonizing lifeform which finds the conditions to its liking. In lighted situations, the photosynthetic lifeforms have an edge because they can gain energy from light. So all those bright white or light-colored "streams" or "paths" are invitations to algae or higher plants. If it is worth it to the hobbyist, certainly they can be maintained. But I am too lazy for that. I want my tank to look good to me and at least decent to others, but they are not decor, they are for the fish or inverts or whatever I am keeping there - first, last, and always. But I also weight heavily the upkeep required as I have too many tank operating to spend hours of time on upkeep which is not important to the livestock. Folks are shocked that I have so many tanks, but I don't actually spend as much time on them as some folks I know do on a small number of "show" tanks. You have to weigh what is important to you, and can be incorporated into your routine care. The low to moderate lighted tanks with darker and not totally uniform colored gravel will be kept neat by simple routine vacuuming, and the non-white gravels will show less algae coating. They also look more "natural" to me.

But sand or gravel that is too sharp can be hard on fish, diggers and burrowers especially. Goldfish are diggers, loaches are both.

Footnote on fish choices: Don't look down on schools of neons. A very large tank, housing only neons and some support crews, can be one of the most beautiful the hobbyist can create. A rolling carpet of small plants with groups of tall plants at each end can be an arresting sight - and you can see and understand schooling behavior in ways you cannot grasp in smaller mixed tanks. But those tanks always stop everyone dead in their tracks -and the fish will live up to 10 years in softer water (only average about six for me). It is one of the best tanks I have ever done. I regret that I have no pictures, but it was inspired by one of Amano's early (and to my mind, best, tanks). Few hobbyists ever really appreciate the common fish because they don't or can't house them properly. I knew someone who was given a huge tank, but could not really afford to set it properly, so put in a shallow covering of ordinary gravel and four or five dozed Zebra Danios - it was spectacular! A real show-stopper, an arresting slice out of a wild stream sitting in a basement - it was one of the showiest tanks possible.

HTH

RTR

[J-P]

Don't look down on schools of neons. A very large tank, housing only neons and some support crews, can be one of the most beautiful the hobbyist can create. A rolling carpet of small plants with groups of tall plants at each end can be an arresting sight - and you can see and understand schooling behavior in ways you cannot grasp in smaller mixed tanks. But those tanks always stop everyone dead in their tracks -and the fish will live up to 10 years in softer water (only average about six for me). It is one of the best tanks I have ever done. I regret that I have no pictures, but it was inspired by one of Amano's early (and to my mind, best, tanks). Few hobbyists ever really appreciate the common fish because they don't or can't house them properly. I knew someone who was given a huge tank, but could not really afford to set it properly, so put in a shallow covering of ordinary gravel and four or five dozed Zebra Danios - it was spectacular! A real show-stopper, an arresting slice out of a wild stream sitting in a basement - it was one of the showiest tanks possible.

It wasn't that is was bad that I couldn't stop thinking about it.. it was THAT GOOD! The image has been stuck in my head for weeks now. Maybe it is possible to do an "Amazon" inspired tank for SAPs ..

I am trying to break the average fish keeper mentality of questioning "how many fish can I squeeze into one tank?" I feel all too often that people take this route when setting up their tanks in a rush.

[J-P]

Ok .. got my base 99% finished .. as you can see I ran out of the black 1/4 round trim. So I'll be getting more from work tomorrow.

I really like this shot because it doesn't highlight my carpentry skills haha ... it looks alot worse in real life! Beautuful wiggly cuts and seams that don't match .. its modern art!

I used 4x4 cedar posts as the frame. They only came 8 feet long so I had to laminate the back of them with 2x4 boards. Covered it with my wiggily cut ply wood, and used the black trim I get for free that shipps with our banana boxes. All said and done $150 for a frame that will support 6+ tones.

Later I will torch the edges of the trim so that the seams are less noticable..

and One tired little J-P

[J-P]

Boys .. and their toys ... don't be jealous ... haha

This is the fishing light that I have connected to a fully charged 12V car battery. Fully underwater ready. 4' long.. purchased from "the green monster" about 2 years ago and never used.

I am debating between using this as a background light or putting it IN the long tank. The reason I hesitate is because it is a fish attractant light.. and it might mess up thie eating habbits. Maybe If I just use it for Photo ops .. that might be ok as opposed to using it daily.

Darth, I'm coming for you!!

[PolishPuff]

It looks like the sword from Star Wars on that pic. Nice

[busybones]

lol

[J-P]

at least there is no glare coming off my head! Some of the other photos looked like a star burst on my knogen!

[J-P]

AquariPure anti nitrate filter. Anyone have any thoughts on these?

It is a this MASSIVE filter .. that came with this tiny tiny little powerhead .. also what looks like a turkey baster, suction cups and 2 shot glasses. Essentially it says it uses ethanol or sucrose + bacteria to help elimanate nitrates. NOW before I get hammered here ... I know that the plants are supposed to help eliminate the nitrates. I ordered this BEFORE I knew what the set up was.

Main question will this product starve the plants of nutrients?? On the good side it has a flow check valve so I can increase or reduce the rate of flow into the tank.

Now this is in the manual, and it seems fishy (pun intended):
"After your Aquaripure has cycled you will want to continue to monitor pH levels, phosphate levels, and any other tank paramaters that you normally would adjust as needed.
A partial water change every three or four months is recommended to feep trace elements at optimal levels and the use of carbon or synthetic absorbant is also recomended to polish the water.
All tanks MUST be well buffered at all times with baking soda or a similar buffer. Monitor pH levels regularly and when pH levels are low use baking soda or a product designed to increase pH to increase it {sic}"

Ok spelling is my problem, the grammar is theirs .. but I have underlined the sections that seem off and don't appear to fit the norm.

I doesn't explain HOW to buffer the water due to pH flux .. I thought that was really only for SW tanks.

Just a little confused.

P.S.
This unit is completely sealed. I do not have access to the media inside it. ..also made some spelling corrections

[J-P]

can anyone point me to a good link or thread regarding SAPs scholling? I am thinking 15-20+ Puffer Pedia is ok .. but would like something with personal experience..
including behavior, pecking order, terrain etc...
Thanks
J-P

[Pufferpunk]

Great SAP article in our Library.

Any product that advertises less WC for FW, is fishy in my book.

[Flutter]

JP, I'm hunting out a cheap 50gal this weekend hopefully (fingers crossed). I'm excited to potentially have SAPs again

[J-P]

dang ... my next closest LFS exotic shop closed Nov 30th... now I have no choice but to order online for almost everything

That's 2 shops in 6 months .... starting to feel a little pressure here ...

[Flutter]

I'd offer to split shipping but I'm farther from you than the airport...

What do you think you'll have to end up doing?