Gill Parasite ?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
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Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
Gill Parasite ?
If a puffer had parasites in the gills could this make the fish stop using one gill and then alternating form one to the other and also cause elevated pumping of the gills to take in oxygen.
Hilly
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Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:36 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Current: Tetraodon Lineatus
Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
Just finished skimming through some posts, some say flicking against objects when puffers have gill flukes, others say using one gill.
I only ask because since I have treated him for parasites last saturday, his breathing rate from his gills seems to have slowed down a lot and he seems to be using both all the time when I have observed him. Temperature has not changed from before treatment (80-82 depending on time of day) and he's still as active as ever.
Last week his gills were pumping at least 2-3 times the speed they are this week.
I only ask because since I have treated him for parasites last saturday, his breathing rate from his gills seems to have slowed down a lot and he seems to be using both all the time when I have observed him. Temperature has not changed from before treatment (80-82 depending on time of day) and he's still as active as ever.
Last week his gills were pumping at least 2-3 times the speed they are this week.
Hilly
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Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:36 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Current: Tetraodon Lineatus
Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
I used Flubeno 15l, as regards him getting thin quite quick, I can see a small improvement, he hasn't been fed for 2 days and he doesnt look as thin as he used to before treatment.
Although this could be me seeing what I want to see with his belly.
I will reserve judgement for now and see how he progresses.
Although this could be me seeing what I want to see with his belly.
I will reserve judgement for now and see how he progresses.
Hilly
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Hilly
- Mentor
- Posts: 1903
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:36 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: Current: Tetraodon Lineatus
Previous:
Tetraodon Sabahensis
Montrete Abei
Tetraodon Biocellatus
Carinotetraodon Salivator - Location (country): UK
- Location: Nottinghamshire, UK
Nope swimming around as he always has, never constantly near the filter or airstream and using all levels of the tank. Also I have mentioned before on another thread that when the gill stopped working it was usually in conjunction with the corresponding fin. This behaviour also seems to have stopped since treatment as well.CoreyK wrote:The way it was explained to me, fish with gill issues "assume" that it is the water that has the problem and not themselves, and will generally try to situate themselves near a water output or near the surface (anywhere they think there may be more oxygen).
Any of this type of behavior?
Obviously it's early days but I am taking these signs as slightly encouraging.
Hilly
If you added it last saturday, I would assume the parasites are dead from what you are saying, the thing is, without checking what sort of parasites they are with a scope, its difficult to knw if they are egg layers or not, if they are you will need to treat it for approx 4 weeks so as any eggs that have been laid can hatch and them be killedHilly wrote:Obviously it's early days but I am taking these signs as slightly encouraging.