The Puffer Forum

I wouldn't think SW bacteria could survive in that SG. If you are setting up a new tank for your puffer (fishless), just get it to 1.020 now & add your bacteria & LR. You can eventually just drip-acclimate the puffer to SW.

I was under the impression you could slowly convert from brackish to marine with the fish at a rate if increasing salinity no more than .002 sg every week. I only have the 40 gallon tank set up now. I do have a 10 gallon that's empty but it would need to be cycled also. looks like I have some more wc than normal until I get the water up to at least 1.020. Or should I just jump to 1.020 from 1.014 and add the bacteria supplements, I already added the live rock last week.

Where did the LR come from? How was the LR cured? You added it to the 1.012 SG tank? It's dying, if you did...

Sorry I used the wrong term while panicking here. I got it at bulk reef supply. It is dry branch tonga rock. That's why I put it in early to let it cure as I slowly raised the salinity to marine. I am bout to go to the fish store to get some water, should I keep at the slow pace or get all salt and a few pounds of cured liverock to seed the dry rock.

It's probably time for you to invest in a RODI system, if you're buying water. Check Bulk Reef Supply

That is on my long list also, first I need a skimmer and refractometer to replace the hydrometer. HOB reef octopuss 2000 is the one I plan on getting for my 40 gallon tank.http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reef-octo ... immer.html I also need a couple hydor pumps so I can take the eheim canister off my system.

Forget Hydors--they're crap pumps.

Thanks for warning me on the hydors, read lots on them and you just saved me some headache and coin. Do I need a Vortech or would a medium size Sicce be ok like theis one http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-voy ... 0-gph.html I will be running my ehiem 2217 with the white fiberglass and a carbon filter without the other stuff and pretty sure I will get the reef octopus 2000 hob. Will that be enough or too much for a 40 breeder with fine sand and a GSP of course.

The reviews look good... Be sure to compare prices against Amazon.

I'll still get it at bulk reef because they hooked me up on the dry tonga rock, I thought the branches would have been a little thinner but they gave me what asked for and then some, ordered 70 lbs and the two boxes of rock and peanuts weighed 80lbs according to ups. I hope I don't get the shipper in trouble but they have a loyal customer if they at least ship what i ordered as quick as they did last time. I will more than likely get my skimmer there also.
Its actually a couple bucks cheaper at BRS but amazon has free shipping so skimmer + powerhead = free shipping if I can do it all at once.

I got my 75gpd RODI unit from them last thanksgiving holiday for a really good deal - $120 I think.

For the Reef Octopus HOB skimmer best deal I found was on aquacave. I purchased the BH2000 for $190 including shipping.

My fellow local hobbyists and I never had problems with our Hydor pumps.

I prefer hob filter over canisters, but IMO you should work with what you have (2217) until you have problems or want to make adjustments for better overall setup.

Every single one of my Koralia pumps started running backwards, sucking water instead of pushing it. ALL are in the garbage now.

Thanks PP i'll stay clear of them Koralia pumps but Im starting to have problems all of a sudden, heres the tank stats now
1.014 sg
7.9 ph
1.125 ammonia
0 nitrate
40 nitrate
I just did a 25% water change yesterday, started adding the micro bacter 7 at half dose until I get salinity up to 1.020. After the water change my ph went down from8.1,amonia went from .50 to .125, nitrites are still 0, and nitrate is still at 40. I am also starting to see a light layer of algae starting on my dry rocks and top layer od fine sand. I also noticed a layer of funk at the skin of the water with the lights on looking up from below the surface. Is my filling in the ehiem and or topfin 40 backpack sabotaging me? I don't want a green tank.

You are wasting your $$$ adding bottled SW bacteria to your BW tank. All you're doing is adding bacteria doomed to die & cause an ammonia spike. Your bigger problem is all the death happening in the LR you've added to a BW tank. If I were you, I'd get that puffer into the 10g with the functioning established filter you have (before the ammonia destroys the remaining live bacteria in there) & set that tank up totally SW. At this point, you're gonna have to take the time to cure your dying LR, before putting the puffer back in there. This can take several weeks.

I only added dry rock and am waiting until I get the salt to full marine before adding any cured rock to seed it like you said. I don't have a functioning filter with marine stuff that will fit on my ten gallon as its an acrylic seaclear tank, or any cured rock yet.