Treating ich in low end BW - question about article above
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Treating ich in low end BW - question about article above
The article above gives good ich treatment advice - advice I've used on pure FW fish before. My question is will it work in low brackish for a brackish puffer that's newly aquired?
I'm looking at an otherwise healthy figure 8 at the LFS (the only good looking one there with regards to eating, healthy fins and color), but he has 3-4 ich spots and I wondered if upping the temp to 85 while moving the fish (in FW) to 1.002 would likely clear things up for him...as well as a 40% water chang with gravel vacuuming.
If not, what's the most recommended BW puffer ich medicine.
Thanks,
Eric
I'm looking at an otherwise healthy figure 8 at the LFS (the only good looking one there with regards to eating, healthy fins and color), but he has 3-4 ich spots and I wondered if upping the temp to 85 while moving the fish (in FW) to 1.002 would likely clear things up for him...as well as a 40% water chang with gravel vacuuming.
If not, what's the most recommended BW puffer ich medicine.
Thanks,
Eric
- Pufferpunk
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Cool. I'm going to pick him up tomorrow then. He's in hard but not BW, so 1.002 seems like a good starting point. Unlike with Homer, though, I'm going to take 2 hours to gradually increase the SG to 1.002 and will likely keep him at that level until the ich is gone. Then, I'll gradually increase up to 1.005 but only after I'm sure he is well.
Unlike Homer (my deceased Figure 8 ), I noticed this guy had yellowish green coloration on 2/3 of his tail fin, but then it's clear on the final 1/3. Being new to puffers, I thought I'd just ask if that's normal or possibly a sign of damage from other puffers nipping him or early bacterial fin rot. Any guesses?
His other fins are perfect, and he has a nice white, round belly.
Thanks,
Eric
Unlike Homer (my deceased Figure 8 ), I noticed this guy had yellowish green coloration on 2/3 of his tail fin, but then it's clear on the final 1/3. Being new to puffers, I thought I'd just ask if that's normal or possibly a sign of damage from other puffers nipping him or early bacterial fin rot. Any guesses?
His other fins are perfect, and he has a nice white, round belly.
Thanks,
Eric
My Mags has a continuation of her colouring onto two thirds of her tail, including squiggles and dots - do you think that's what poor Homer had?
Or did it just look a bit....off? I reckon it was his colouring. Robert doesn't have it at all, but hers is quite pronounced.
Good luck with the new guy!
Pami.
Or did it just look a bit....off? I reckon it was his colouring. Robert doesn't have it at all, but hers is quite pronounced.
Good luck with the new guy!
Pami.
Pami - thanks for the reassurance on the tail thing! Homer's tail was all clear, it's the new guy at the LFS with the colored tail (he's coming home with me today). The tail fin didn't look damaged, so I'm sure it's just coloration like Mags...obviously, I'm just paranoid after the bad experience with Homer.
Thanks everyone!
Eric
Thanks everyone!
Eric
One follow-up...is it possible using the heat and salt method for there ever to be an increase in the ich after treatment or should there always be less of the little buggers? My little guy I picked-up yesterday seems to have more spots today than yesterday...it's likely just the ich maturing and breaking though, but after a couple more days if the ich is still increasing would you advise I continue with salt and temp or resort to a medicine and if medicine, which one?
Thanks again,
Eric
Thanks again,
Eric
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The salt treatment should continue at least 10 days past the last visible spot's disappearance, 2 weeks if the temp is not well above 80F.
Spots which were infected with parasites will continue to appear 2-3 days minimum after the treatment starts, from protozoans which had embedded but were not sufficiently developed to be seen when treatment started.
Spots which were infected with parasites will continue to appear 2-3 days minimum after the treatment starts, from protozoans which had embedded but were not sufficiently developed to be seen when treatment started.
Where's the fish? - Neptune
Just remember, the salt can only get the little gits when they're in the water, it can't get to them when they're in the skin - they're protected.
Bear that in mind, and keep patient...good luck.
Pami.
Bear that in mind, and keep patient...good luck.
Pami.
Last edited by Pamela on Wed Jun 08, 2005 10:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32764
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
I'm pretty paranoid with temps that high (I already have a supplemental airstone in there). I'll try upping it a few degrees tonight and see how he is doing. We're still talking only about 10 ich spots or so on his whole body and fins.
I'd been planning to gravel vac w/water change every other day...is that sufficient?
I also discovered a section of a piece of java fern was missing this morning...and that section perfectly matched the size of the puffers mouth. Did he think he saw a snail or do Figure 8s snack on plants from time to time?
Eric
I'd been planning to gravel vac w/water change every other day...is that sufficient?
I also discovered a section of a piece of java fern was missing this morning...and that section perfectly matched the size of the puffers mouth. Did he think he saw a snail or do Figure 8s snack on plants from time to time?
Eric
If you up the temp, the life cycle will speed up, which means that there'll be more frequent loads of the free-swimming parasites in the water. Hopefully they'll die and sink to the bottom, so I'd gravel vac every day.
You should be ok with 86 degrees, just make sure the fish isn't starting to show signs of suffocating. If he does, knock the thermostat down a bit.
Tomites...that's the name for the free-swimming ones, yes? I was trying to remember.
Pami.
You should be ok with 86 degrees, just make sure the fish isn't starting to show signs of suffocating. If he does, knock the thermostat down a bit.
Tomites...that's the name for the free-swimming ones, yes? I was trying to remember.
Pami.
Just a brief update - Dougal is doing great. I did increase the temp to 86, but I'm not goin' any higher than that - I think my poor little heater might poop out if I did (the tank is in a half finished basement). He's absolutely fine at that temp.
Only one ich spot today! Naturally, I'll keep the temp up way beyond the last ich spot, but they've been declining every day since my last post.
So, we're on the mend.
Thanks all,
Eric
Only one ich spot today! Naturally, I'll keep the temp up way beyond the last ich spot, but they've been declining every day since my last post.
So, we're on the mend.
Thanks all,
Eric