I’ll follow the rules this time!
Temp:76/77*F
Am:0
Nitri:0
Nitra:30ppm
PH:8
GH:250
KH:89.5
Tank:29G with Aqueon Canister @ 200gph, sand substrate with no plants.
Inhabitants: 1 Miurus puffer (at least 3yo, was a rehome from a place where he was well cared for. He definitely has been treated for IPs and came home to me healthy). Eats bloodworm cubes and thawed raw human grade shrimp (I know I know, but they’r so resistant to change in their diet... I can’t get him to eat much else, but I’m still trying!). Change 15G of water weekly, temp matched and prime for dechlorinator. Keep reg wondershells in tank. His lighting is not super bright, however it’s not diffused by plants or anything else.
Apollo’s been sucking in his eyes. Sometimes just one, sometimes both. Anyone who has a Miurus likely knows what I’m talking about, it’s very unique how this species can suck their eyes in by simultaneously squeezing and twisting the skin over the eye itself. Also anerving. I have had a particularly long and messy sickness take my most beloved fish, and there is still speculation as to what this was that happened to her... Mycobacterium being a candidate (fish TB). Now with that being said, I have been PARTICULARLY careful to have a set of Apollo’s own everything (feeding tongs, syphon, buckets, baster, etc) since I got him, as I had bad Cyanobacteria in a tank and had become very precautious not to cross contaminate long before this mystery ilness happened (basically there is less then 1% chance IMHO that it could have reached this, or any other puff tank). I noticed it about 10 days ago for the first time, but thought he was likely getting some sand out of his eye etc. I also did a largo water chance after I noticed it again, thinking fresh water (again) may help. I was curious if anyone has an idea what could be going on? My tank is well maintained and i am about to put a UVS into it, but it has a strong outflow and with Apollo’s eyes bothering him, I’m wondering if I should wait?
Miurus squeezing eyes closed
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Bleedingheartmommy
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:39 pm
- My Puffers: Honey (SIP Cantaloupe): C. Travancoricus
Mad Max: P. Cochinchinensis
Apollo: T. Miurus
(SIP Bonnie) Clyde: C. Irrubesco
SIP Orchid - Location (country): USA-Seattle, WA
Miurus squeezing eyes closed
"Genetics loads the gun, and environment pulls the trigger."-Brené Brown
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Miurus squeezing eyes closed
I'm sorry, I've never heard anything like this. There's a great FB group for sick fish: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2200245 ... ?ref=br_rs
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"