2 female c travancoricus rescued from being starved, was told they were treated for IPs, but the one having problems looks to still have them. I was feeding and the full grown one, and healthiest of the 2 Cantaloupe, who got a worm from the surface and fought at the surface with it. When she came down she couldn't get her head up without being pulled to the surface by her bumbum. She rolls onto her back and side when she sits buoyant. I think she took in air, and I tried the "burping" method (from the PPedia) under water, but was too scared to be forceful as she's only an inch long... and it stressed her the hell out. Could it be the parasites and She's too far gone... she's so healthy and full of life, I am so anxious to help her. I couldn't find any IP treatment in town so I got some overnighted last night and will be getting powdered dewormer first thing tomorrow a.m. But I doubt she'll eat now.
Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 10
Ph: 7.8
Tank: 5.5 gal QT fully cycled for a year- NOT permanent home. Only tank mates are snails and ghost shrimp they won't eat or hunt...
I Do 50% water change every other day as the filter builds up to handler a higher bio load. I add seachem prime, and Wondershells for Calcium carbonate and mineral cations. They will only eat thawed blood worms and tiny baby bladder snails. They eat 3 small Meals a day while I try and get them fattened up...
Edit: after more research i am sure she's got an air bubble, I can see it on her side by her booty. I cut the filter and gave her some time, she's swimming better but not 100%. I read about using a breeder to hold her under water to get the air out on her own here on TPF, so i went out a got one in case that's my only hope.
So should I try to pin her under water with a breeder net box in tank (makes me nervous as I also have bettas and am used to that being a big no-no)? Or should I try to burp her again, I sure didn't like that... and she didn't either. Or should I have "the talk" to prepare my son for what's to come (oh please don't tell me this is the most likely)?!?!
DP with air inside! Pls help!!!
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
-
Bleedingheartmommy
- Figure 8 Puffer
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:39 pm
- My Puffers: Honey (SIP Cantaloupe): C. Travancoricus
Mad Max: P. Cochinchinensis
Apollo: T. Miurus
(SIP Bonnie) Clyde: C. Irrubesco
SIP Orchid - Location (country): USA-Seattle, WA
DP with air inside! Pls help!!!
"Genetics loads the gun, and environment pulls the trigger."-Brené Brown
-
Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: DP with air inside! Pls help!!!
Pinning her underwater won't do a thing for her issue. Have you tried to literally gently squeeze the air out of her body?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"