Sick Figure Puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Pufftastic
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 430
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 2:02 pm
- My Puffers: 1 x C travancoricus
Have also kept:
T biocellatus - Location (country): California USA
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
There are a couple of decent sellers of dwarf puffers on Aquabid, if you'd like fish that are truly freshwater. Think I saw some F8s listed there recently too, if you still want to do brackish.
Yo ho, yo ho, a puffer's life for me.
- Iliveinazoo
- Fahaka Puffer
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- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:09 am
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- Location: Southampton
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Dead base rock is fine in Brackish tanks or alkaline freshwater tanks but would increase the pH in an acidic freshwater tank.Zeroboard wrote:That's disappointing to hear about DFS. I had no idea....i will likely be washing everything out and starting anew soon. What are your opinions about either dead base rock that's been completely treated, or driftwood/plant setups in brackish tanks? I've read mixed information about both of those setups
Driftwood is fine in an acidic freshwater tank but reduces pH so is at odds with what you want in a Brackish tank. But if you are running a low salinity brackish tank and have alkaline tap water and don't go crazy with the amount of driftwood you put in then you can use it. I have a small amount of driftwood in my brackish tank (SG1.003@25DegC) and even though my tank has been running for around 7 years it is still in one piece and doesn't appear to have degraded much, if at all.
I think where you do have to be careful if adding wood to a brackish tank is in sourcing it yourself, driftwood by definition is wood that has been 'drifting' around in water maybe for years and so much of the parts of the wood that would decay quickly, like the bark and outer layers has already decayed. Also a softwood would decay much quicker than a hardwood.
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Thank you everyone for your feedback, it's greatly appreciated. I've scoured the site--much information I already knew but learned quite a bit as well. I just want to make sure before wiping the slate clean and starting over that this will be a better setup than before, here's what I was thinking...
- Aragonite sand (previously used regular aquarium sand), and I read that the aragonite is a great natural buffer and will add to the overall ph and water quality for permanent use
- Up to 6-7 lb.s of treated dead base rock (safe)
- Some brackish growing plants that I will attach inside the base rock scattered about for hiding, aesthetics, and tank quality
I will cycle the tank as I cycled my freshwater a long time ago. Will use seachem stability for the recommended week, purchase the API liquid test kit and test after that. Might wind up cycling for an additional week or two to be safe, and once parameters drop to normal, will find a new puffer to consume my hobby with and, as before, raise the salinity .001-.002 per week.
P.S. I usually would wash new tanks/systems with white vinegar and rinse completely, and that's what I plan on using to refresh this tank back to new, any thoughts?
- Aragonite sand (previously used regular aquarium sand), and I read that the aragonite is a great natural buffer and will add to the overall ph and water quality for permanent use
- Up to 6-7 lb.s of treated dead base rock (safe)
- Some brackish growing plants that I will attach inside the base rock scattered about for hiding, aesthetics, and tank quality
I will cycle the tank as I cycled my freshwater a long time ago. Will use seachem stability for the recommended week, purchase the API liquid test kit and test after that. Might wind up cycling for an additional week or two to be safe, and once parameters drop to normal, will find a new puffer to consume my hobby with and, as before, raise the salinity .001-.002 per week.
P.S. I usually would wash new tanks/systems with white vinegar and rinse completely, and that's what I plan on using to refresh this tank back to new, any thoughts?
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
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Also kept:
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Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Tossing in Stability will not cycle a tank. Please read how to properly fishless cycle a tank, in our Library. Great article on F8s there, too.
Here's a great article about mixing BW: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=19348
Here's a great article about mixing BW: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=19348
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
That's misleading! I might put some in and use the fish flake method to cycle this time around then
- hadla
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:33 pm
- Gender: Female
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- Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Is this your only tank? If not, you can use gravel/sand from another one to "seed" it
Never trust big puffers. The fingers you save may be your own. -RTR
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
I do have another larger well established freshwater tank. So I can just scoop some up and mix with new sand and a newly cycling tank and that would help cycle?
- hadla
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:33 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 2 gsps and a big Stars and stripes
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- Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Yes, using substrate from it and adding filter media from the old tank will help greatly! I started out with a 5g in 2006 and all my current tanks have been seeded from that original tank!
Never trust big puffers. The fingers you save may be your own. -RTR
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
The only last thing I was wondering about is my large tank has a big penguin filter in it with a large cartridge and my small tank is a Marina S10 slim, how do people go about using the old media in the new tank? Do you just kind of slip it in as far as it can go so long as water is running through it?
- hadla
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:33 pm
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: 2 gsps and a big Stars and stripes
- Location (country): California
- Location: Sacramento, CA
- Contact:
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Hm I don't know on that one... Usually it's a bigger filter seeding a smaller one
Never trust big puffers. The fingers you save may be your own. -RTR
- Pufftastic
- Green Spotted Puffer
- Posts: 430
- Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 2:02 pm
- My Puffers: 1 x C travancoricus
Have also kept:
T biocellatus - Location (country): California USA
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
You can cut pieces from the old cartridge and stuff them in the new filter. The old cartridge is where all the goodness resides.
Yo ho, yo ho, a puffer's life for me.
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Thanks for all the input guys. I spent some time yesterday and today talking to some fish people at the local pet shops. I actually showed up at pet supermarket right as they were getting a huge shipment in, and it included 4 TINY f8's. I'm still at arms with myself in terms of trying another f8 or moving to a freshwater species. The local wholesale supplier can get a wide variety, but for my sized tanks I think for now its between the f8, a red eyed puffer, or a south American. I plan on purchasing new filter medias tomorrow but am a bit paranoid about filling the bottom with aragonite as it will raise the PH, and without a definite species picked out. Or do the benefits outweigh any serious risk, and just fill the bottom with it?
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Read our info here on the SAP. They prefer to live in groups.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
Ok, the tank is set up and is cycling! I think I'm going to opt for some dwarf puffers as they're a little easier than the larger breeds, and considering the tank size, it would be the best bet. I picked up a piece of mopani wood, and a few bags of the caribsea sand and washed, boiled the wood, and set it up last night creating a dramatic sand slope in the back using some lava rocks. Per the suggestion above I snipped some of the old penguin filter and threw it into the newly cycling tank. When it's cycled and I have them in the tank I'll snap a photo and post here =D
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Sick Figure Puffer
I wouldn't use Caribsea sand. It will raise the pH & make the water hard. Just go with normal sand.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"