Concerned
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
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Re: Concerned
I see absolutely no reason to medicate him. Just continue offering live foods & garlic-soaked dead foods.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Concerned
He's been in his home tank without medication for three days. Looks less afraid but still refusing all food. He just lays at the bottom behind some plants. Ammonia is .25ppm everything else is still zero. There are ghost shrimp in the tank he ignores and a declawed fiddler crab he ignored long enough that it climbed into the filter and I had to dig him out. Any other ideas?
- bertie 83
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Re: Concerned
He is likely stressed, keep up the water changes and prime dosing as you are still showing ammonia. Can you get any established filter media from anyone?
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Concerned
Have you added safestart / bio-spira to your filter to aid the non cycled tank?
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Concerned
Teeth look fine and he was eating snails among other things just fine about two weeks ago. Could his teeth have overgrown already. My tap water already as ammonia in it. I think my test kit is reading the detoxified ammonia.
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Concerned
A fully cycled tank would remove the ammo added from your source water in a matter of hours. I would really consider adding mature filter media or safestart/ bio-spira ( depending on salinity)
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Concerned
I'll give it a shot. Thank you.
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Concerned
No problem, hope it helps
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Concerned
HE'S EATING!
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
-
- Mentor
- Posts: 6155
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 4:39 pm
- Gender: Male
- Location (country): East Coast, USA
Re: Concerned
Technically, ammonia is not "removed". It is oxidized to nitrite (also toxic), and nitrite in turn is oxidized to nitrate. Nitrate is much less hazardous than ammonia or nitrite. But the nitrogen is still present, just changed in form. Nitrogen can be removed from tank water by plants and/or algae when they absorb nitrogen to incorporate into their own tissue. Nitrogen is also removed in water changes if the replacement water is lower than the tank water..
The above may seem to be nit-picking, but I have only recently realized that many hobbyists do not understand that changes in form are quite distinct from removal or sequestering, and that high nitrate reading are harmful to many or most fish. Nitrate levels ideally should be at or below 15 ppm in most tanks. Many hobbyists have no realistic hope of achieving those levels due the nitrate levels in their tap water. this can affect their choice of fish tpo keep and/or breed.
HTH/FWIW.
The above may seem to be nit-picking, but I have only recently realized that many hobbyists do not understand that changes in form are quite distinct from removal or sequestering, and that high nitrate reading are harmful to many or most fish. Nitrate levels ideally should be at or below 15 ppm in most tanks. Many hobbyists have no realistic hope of achieving those levels due the nitrate levels in their tap water. this can affect their choice of fish tpo keep and/or breed.
HTH/FWIW.
Where's the fish? - Neptune
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Concerned
Some great reads on understanding this subject:
library/category/water-filtration/
library/category/water-filtration/
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Concerned
He took a bite of a mussel and then had enough. It's not much but at least it's something.