My beloved puffer is acting very sick and lethargic since yesterday. His usually vibrant coloring is paler than usual and he is not showing interest in doing anything. He sits at the bottom of the aquarium for long periods of time. Occasionally, he will get up and swim around slowly, but he settles quickly to the bottom of the tank. His breathing seem slightly more labored. I have gotten him to eat a couple small snails, but he won't take any other food. I got him this last August as a baby, so it shouldn't be age-related.
His tank was cycled using a fishless cycle for a couple months before purchasing him, and it was freshwater to begin with (he was sold in freshwater at my lfs). After each water change, I gradually added more Seachem brackish salt (recommended at lfs) to the new water until the salinity was at 1.005, where I now keep it. This process took about 6 weeks.
His filter hasn't been working very well lately, so when I saw him get sick, I looked at it and saw some white gunk (looked like mold) in there. I replaced the entire filter, putting some of the old filter media that didn't have any white stuff on it behind the new one to keep the cycle going. I have also been having issues with algae. It's green hair algae, and I can't seem to get rid of it, but I haven't been concerned, as this seems to be an aesthetic issue normally.
He is the only fish in my 10g tank.
I normally feed him frozen bloodworms or glassworms daily, and a couple pond snails at least every other day. Sometimes I will go a day without feeding him.
I do weekly 50% water changes and keep an eye on water parameters after every change. Recently, school started, so his water changes have been a little more spread out Current specs are:
Salinity: 1.005
pH: 7.5
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: <5 ppm
I've tried everything I can think of, and have seen no improvement. Any more ideas?
Sick f8
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Pufferpunk
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Re: Sick f8
![[welcome]](./images/smilies/welcome.gif "welcome")
It would be obvious to say something happened when the filter went unattended. I also feel you are using the wrong kind of salt. You need marine salt, not just Seachem. Not sure if that is really marine salt that has all the minerals needed for this application.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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JRC3
- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Sick f8
Never heard of that product. http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... hSalt.htmlPufferpunk wrote:
Seems like it might be an overpackaged and overpriced salt. Not sure if marinne mix or aquarium salt with additives. IDK.
OP, most use regular marine mix like Instant Ocean brand with total success, it is true marine salt.
There are many knowledgeable fish keepers on this forum willing to help and give great advice...The advice is free; What you choose to do with it gives it value.
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RTR
- Mentor
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Re: Sick f8
I pretty much agree with Pufferpunk's comments above. Without knowing the analysis of that Seachem product, we just cannot say much about it. I would suggest using regular marine mix.
At the low densities used for F-8s, regular marine mixes may or may not be adequate. I very commonly add extra alkalinity salt(s) to the salt mix if there is any significant decrease in the pH between water changes. This is not usually required when I oversize the tanks as I commonly do. I do not like water quality issues as routine care on specialized tanks. So I add extra carbonate/bicarbonate along with the proper amount of marine mix (as used for marine tanks). This mixture is aged, mixed and tempered ~48 hours before use to ensure full solution of all the salts. I have preached this for years, but I know that few hobbyists do this. To me it natters. Low-density BW is not very stable IME. I strongly suggest making sure you do not allow alkalinity losses between water partials.
Once you have found the right amounts of marine mix and extra alkalinity salt, it really is little more trouble than pre-mixiing for marine or reef tanks. Or at least not for me, as I always pre-age all my water for tank use.
HTH
At the low densities used for F-8s, regular marine mixes may or may not be adequate. I very commonly add extra alkalinity salt(s) to the salt mix if there is any significant decrease in the pH between water changes. This is not usually required when I oversize the tanks as I commonly do. I do not like water quality issues as routine care on specialized tanks. So I add extra carbonate/bicarbonate along with the proper amount of marine mix (as used for marine tanks). This mixture is aged, mixed and tempered ~48 hours before use to ensure full solution of all the salts. I have preached this for years, but I know that few hobbyists do this. To me it natters. Low-density BW is not very stable IME. I strongly suggest making sure you do not allow alkalinity losses between water partials.
Once you have found the right amounts of marine mix and extra alkalinity salt, it really is little more trouble than pre-mixiing for marine or reef tanks. Or at least not for me, as I always pre-age all my water for tank use.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
Re: Sick f8
Thank you all for your replies and input. I will be changing my salt if Octavius survives this. However, I highly doubt salt is the current issue, as I have been using the stuff for months and the onset of my puffers symptoms started a couple days ago. If im not mistaken, a mineral deficiency should not cause a sudden decline, but a more gradual one.
Thank you pufferpunk for pointing out the filter. Since I replaced the entire unit, should I be seeing improvement by now?
He has started to roll when he swims now, which is getting less and less frequent. I don't think he's going to last much longer. He doesn't eat anything anymore, so I'll try a shelled pea, but I doubt he'll eat it at all
Thank you pufferpunk for pointing out the filter. Since I replaced the entire unit, should I be seeing improvement by now?
He has started to roll when he swims now, which is getting less and less frequent. I don't think he's going to last much longer. He doesn't eat anything anymore, so I'll try a shelled pea, but I doubt he'll eat it at all
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Sick f8
Poor guy... 
The problem with not having an adequate environment (proper salt, etc), is it compromises their immune system.
The problem with not having an adequate environment (proper salt, etc), is it compromises their immune system.You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"