The Puffer Forum

Personally, I wouldn't get pea puffers if you're regularly going to be away for 3 weeks at a time. Some individuals will accept foods like Vibrabites or frozen foods, but many are picky and prefer live or frozen prey. Leaving them unattended for that long is risky, especially if you don't already kn...

Pufferpunk wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2026 9:49 am This post is from 2023.

my bad
didn't pay attention on that

It's not just about swimming space. Even relatively sedentary ambush puffers benefit from a larger footprint because it allows them to establish a territory, choose different hiding spots, and exhibit more natural behavior. The larger water volume also helps dilute waste, which is important since pu...

A 125-gallon tank is a decent size for a porcupine puffer, especially if he's still not fully grown. The main things I'd pay attention to are water quality, stable salinity, and making sure he has enough open swimming space in addition to hiding spots. One thing that stands out is the salinity of 1....

before treating, I'd try to identify what makes you think it's parasites. Porcupine puffers often arrive with internal parasites, but the treatment depends on the symptoms. If he's eating well and maintaining weight, I wouldn't rush into medicating. For suspected internal parasites, many hobbyists u...

At 5 cm, your Mbu is still very young, so I wouldn't worry too much about tooth wear yet. Scallop is fine as part of the diet, but try offering small pond/bladder snails, tiny mussels, or shelled shrimp as she grows. The key is to introduce crunchy foods gradually once she can comfortably crush them...

In my experience, there isn't a single "best" reef fish. For beginners, clownfish are hard to beat because they're hardy, reef-safe, and relatively easy to care for. Gobies and blennies are also great choices. I'd focus more on stocking compatible fish and keeping water parameters stable t...