Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
- bertie 83
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Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Cool, what are the dimensions of the tank? Look forward to pics when it's up and running.
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
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- Mentor
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Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Otos need established and rather heavily planted tanks to survive the transition from the wild to captivity. The footprint of the tank matters in the density of the planting and the variety of the plants housed there. Otos and DPs are quite compatible in my tanks, but I know that they are not in many tanks discussed on this forum. I suspect that their survival in my tanks is in large part that I learned years ago to not ever try them in immature tanks or less than densely planted tanks. The DPs in my tanks completely ignores the Otos, and vice versa.
My water also has non-trivial levels of soluble silicates. That means that I always have some diatom algae present. Diatom algae is quite likely the favored diet of Otos (in the wild and in captivity), and tank lacking such are not hospitable to them. Soft green algae alone does not appear to be an adequate diet to support them. In my moderately to heavily planted tanks, Otos survive many years, but only if they are added after the tank and its planting in mature. Otherwise they die quite young. IMHO & IME, commercial diets are insufficient to support Otos in captivity. Proper selection of the particular fish in the LFS is also important. Avoid hollow-bellieied or worse, sunken-eyed Otos. They only rarely can be brought back from prior starvation.
Otos are easy and hardy in the proper situation. In new tanks or if previously starved, they are impossible IME. Bertie's experiences are exactly what faces most folks who try them in newish tanks or with selections from starved fish. Many suckermouth cats lose their gut bacteria if starved and those usually cannot be saved.
HTH
My water also has non-trivial levels of soluble silicates. That means that I always have some diatom algae present. Diatom algae is quite likely the favored diet of Otos (in the wild and in captivity), and tank lacking such are not hospitable to them. Soft green algae alone does not appear to be an adequate diet to support them. In my moderately to heavily planted tanks, Otos survive many years, but only if they are added after the tank and its planting in mature. Otherwise they die quite young. IMHO & IME, commercial diets are insufficient to support Otos in captivity. Proper selection of the particular fish in the LFS is also important. Avoid hollow-bellieied or worse, sunken-eyed Otos. They only rarely can be brought back from prior starvation.
Otos are easy and hardy in the proper situation. In new tanks or if previously starved, they are impossible IME. Bertie's experiences are exactly what faces most folks who try them in newish tanks or with selections from starved fish. Many suckermouth cats lose their gut bacteria if starved and those usually cannot be saved.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Well, maybe in the future when the tank is established I'll consider adding them, but for now it'll just be my puffers!
I think it's 24"x12"x16, something close to that? I need a measuring tape, my ruler is warped...
I think it's 24"x12"x16, something close to that? I need a measuring tape, my ruler is warped...
- bertie 83
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- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
19.9 gallons
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
thanks, my measuring is probably a little off so I think it's more likely 20 gallons lol
3 should be pretty happy in there I think
3 should be pretty happy in there I think
- puffykid
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Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Not sure if this was mentioned but make sure you get 2 females to 1 male, this will help with aggression.
"Sexing
Determining the sex of Dwarf Puffers when they're young is very difficult since most of their secondary sexual characteristics do not show up until they reach adulthood. Most of the Dwarf Puffers sold in stores are juveniles, so picking out how many males and females you're getting can be next to impossible. Most owners won't know until their dwarves are grown. When they are old enough, however, it is easy to tell the males from the females: The males have a dark line that runs down their belly (their bellies have more yellow coloring as well). The vertical line on the males darkens with sexual maturity and during spawning. The males also have lines or "wrinkles" behind their eyes that the females do not have. The C. imitator male is identifiable by a "keel" and "comb" created with the ability to erect their dorsal and ventral ridges. Finally, another way to determine the sex of a Dwarf Puffer is to look at its body shape. The female's body will be much rounder than the male's."
-Dwarf puffer forum guide
"Sexing
Determining the sex of Dwarf Puffers when they're young is very difficult since most of their secondary sexual characteristics do not show up until they reach adulthood. Most of the Dwarf Puffers sold in stores are juveniles, so picking out how many males and females you're getting can be next to impossible. Most owners won't know until their dwarves are grown. When they are old enough, however, it is easy to tell the males from the females: The males have a dark line that runs down their belly (their bellies have more yellow coloring as well). The vertical line on the males darkens with sexual maturity and during spawning. The males also have lines or "wrinkles" behind their eyes that the females do not have. The C. imitator male is identifiable by a "keel" and "comb" created with the ability to erect their dorsal and ventral ridges. Finally, another way to determine the sex of a Dwarf Puffer is to look at its body shape. The female's body will be much rounder than the male's."
-Dwarf puffer forum guide
1 M. Turgidus - 29 gallon
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
yeah, I'm going to try for all females or 1 male and two females
Thanks for mentioning that though
Thanks for mentioning that though
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- Fahaka Puffer
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Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Thank you for clearing that up for me; I really appreciate it.RTR wrote:Otos need established and rather heavily planted tanks to survive the transition from the wild to captivity. The footprint of the tank matters in the density of the planting and the variety of the plants housed there. Otos and DPs are quite compatible in my tanks, but I know that they are not in many tanks discussed on this forum. I suspect that their survival in my tanks is in large part that I learned years ago to not ever try them in immature tanks or less than densely planted tanks. The DPs in my tanks completely ignores the Otos, and vice versa.
My water also has non-trivial levels of soluble silicates. That means that I always have some diatom algae present. Diatom algae is quite likely the favored diet of Otos (in the wild and in captivity), and tank lacking such are not hospitable to them. Soft green algae alone does not appear to be an adequate diet to support them. In my moderately to heavily planted tanks, Otos survive many years, but only if they are added after the tank and its planting in mature. Otherwise they die quite young. IMHO & IME, commercial diets are insufficient to support Otos in captivity. Proper selection of the particular fish in the LFS is also important. Avoid hollow-bellieied or worse, sunken-eyed Otos. They only rarely can be brought back from prior starvation.
Otos are easy and hardy in the proper situation. In new tanks or if previously starved, they are impossible IME. Bertie's experiences are exactly what faces most folks who try them in newish tanks or with selections from starved fish. Many suckermouth cats lose their gut bacteria if starved and those usually cannot be saved.
HTH
"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal." -- Henry Ford
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Other than java ferns and java moss, what plants would you guys suggest for my tank? (I'm using Eco-complete substrate btw)
- bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
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- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
If you can get water wisteria grab it, very pretty and very fast growing
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
Wow, I just saw that at the pet store the other day O.o I'll have to get some next time I go out
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- Mentor
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Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
I am generally not big on stem plants, but with DPs I always used some, most often Rotala indica, as it is very easy and undemanding. That plant with a clump of java moss caught between its stems was my DP's routine spawning site. The male would work the moss into a sort of hole or tunnel and invite the female in to spawn.
Besides, as you have a plant substrate, you should grow some things with real roots which take in nutrients from the substrate - Java Fern and Java moss do not. Wisteria and Rotala both will.
Nuclear_Glitter et al.: There are quite a number of fish which we say are easy, because they are. But a lot of them do have special requirements. If your water and handling and the set-up itself suit those fish, they are long-lived and useful. But if you are unaware of what their need are, those fish can and will fail. There are lots of folks like bertie who will not touch Otos, as they die for them. But they are in fact easy, IF ....That is a big "if" which is not always expressed or detailed in posts. Lots of common LFS fish fit that category.
HTH
Besides, as you have a plant substrate, you should grow some things with real roots which take in nutrients from the substrate - Java Fern and Java moss do not. Wisteria and Rotala both will.
Nuclear_Glitter et al.: There are quite a number of fish which we say are easy, because they are. But a lot of them do have special requirements. If your water and handling and the set-up itself suit those fish, they are long-lived and useful. But if you are unaware of what their need are, those fish can and will fail. There are lots of folks like bertie who will not touch Otos, as they die for them. But they are in fact easy, IF ....That is a big "if" which is not always expressed or detailed in posts. Lots of common LFS fish fit that category.
HTH
Where's the fish? - Neptune
Re: Stocking a 20 gallon for DPs
I'm definitely going to look into all these plants, thanks for the suggestions guys (and gals)