Worming My Congo Puffer
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
- pufferpuggirl
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Worming My Congo Puffer
So I've had my Congo puffer just less than a month (got him 14 November), and I did a worming with praziquantel immediately, even though he wasn't showing any real effects from parasites. I did notice that ever since having him, he wouldn't open his tail, he would keep it very tightly closed, and he also breathes very heavily. Then about a couple weeks ago, I seen the "string of pearls" poop in his tank, but I also noticed that he was opening his tail and using it as normal, but the heavy breathing continued. I seen more stringy poop the following day as well. He's been eating good all along, though sometimes he completely regurgitates all of his food. I was worried about him so last night I found my 'Tank Buddies' wormer, which of course has 4 medications instead of just praziquantel, and I dosed him with that. I observed a huge stringy poop this morning, so maybe he still has issues, though I am hoping this 2nd worming will get him through it.
Does anyone think his heavy breathing is anything to worry about? I do recall my other Congo breathing a bit heavy, but not sure about this one. I was going to do a water change, as the water looks a bit cloudy and I need to get that poop out of there. Should I do another dosage any time soon? It has been ages since I've had to worm a puffer, as I've had most of mine a while and/or they've been in very good health.
Thanks everyone.
Does anyone think his heavy breathing is anything to worry about? I do recall my other Congo breathing a bit heavy, but not sure about this one. I was going to do a water change, as the water looks a bit cloudy and I need to get that poop out of there. Should I do another dosage any time soon? It has been ages since I've had to worm a puffer, as I've had most of mine a while and/or they've been in very good health.
Thanks everyone.
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
- Pufferpunk
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
Dosed the tank or his food? FW fish don't drink water, so dosing the tank is a waste & non-treatment.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- pufferpuggirl
- Mbu Puffer
- Posts: 3979
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1 x M Turgidus
1 x T Palembangensis
1 x M Baileyii
1 x T Schoutedeni
1 x T Leiurus
1 x T Miurus
Rainbow crab
crayfish - Location (country): Yorkshire, GB
- Location: South Yorkshire, UK
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
So you don't think puffers absorb medications through their skin at all? If they are so sensitive to chemicals, I think they must .... and it's worked before, but we'll see. I have never had good results dosing food, as the puffer usually doesn't eat it.
"Puffer .... man's best friend?"
- Pufferpunk
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- Posts: 32764
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
You MUST treat internal parasites internally.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
- Welch4
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
+1 to the food dosing. I was constantly having to dose the tank due to the white stringies untill i learned to does its food.
Forget other advice about puffers you don't hear here - Pufferpunk
- dma1976
- Dwarf Puffer
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
Just soak the food in garlicguard and a drop or two of Prazi, don't overdo it.
Also, the Prazi decreases oxygen in the water so add an air stone or two. That could be the reason for hard breathing.
Good luck!
Also, the Prazi decreases oxygen in the water so add an air stone or two. That could be the reason for hard breathing.
Good luck!
-
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
I use to breed and raise discus and when I was first learning I went out and bought a bunch of discus from a local store and at the time didn't know how to tell from improper shape to being stunted so at the time I went simply for the colors and out of the group I had a blue diamond discus that wasn't growing like the rest my friend suggested I treat for internal parasites so I used prazi at the suggested dose and I did not add any to the food and within an hour tape worm was coming out of the blue diamond
the next dose again done in only the water tape worm was pouring out of the little guy and then 3 days The discus died so I would say that you are safe with adding just to the water for at least tape worm and of course couldn't hurt to add it too food as well. Good luck
the next dose again done in only the water tape worm was pouring out of the little guy and then 3 days The discus died so I would say that you are safe with adding just to the water for at least tape worm and of course couldn't hurt to add it too food as well. Good luck
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32764
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
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2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
FW fish do NOT drink water. No way can the meds reach IPs without medicating food. My thought is your discus was so overloaded with worms, they were coming out the other end. The discus died! I don't see how you might think this is helpful info.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
I also thought treated "baths" work as well. I treated my apisto with levamisole but I treated the tank and not food. This link also say prazi may work as a bath: http://www.fws.gov/fisheries/aadap/PDF/ ... 7feb07.pdf
I am not sure how accurate these are but I am interested as I am getting a new puffer soon and may want to do a prophylactic treatment.
Thanks.
Js
I am not sure how accurate these are but I am interested as I am getting a new puffer soon and may want to do a prophylactic treatment.
Thanks.
Js
- Pufferpunk
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- Posts: 32764
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
Again, FW fish do NOT drink water!!!
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
do they have to drink to absorb meds?
- Arny
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
Can they not absorb the meds through their skin PP?Pufferpunk wrote:Again, FW fish do NOT drink water!!!
- Pufferpunk
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- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
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- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
Not into their gut.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
-
- Puffer Fry
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Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
What PP is saying in case you still aren't getting it, is that worming medicine is designed to attack parasites in the stomach. Getting the medicine into their blood stream via skin absorption does you no good when you are trying to attack parasites in the stomach. By treating the water you have slightly changed the puffers water chemistry causing him stress, but have gotten little or none of that medication to the parasites where it is going to aid your puffer. There are medications that might do your fish good by skin absorption, but obviously it's not gonna work with worming medicine.
- Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32764
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Worming My Congo Puffer
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What they said.
What they said.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"