So I've finally gotten my all of my puffers to eat dead food, yay! They also seem much more content in the new living arrangements. My newest problem is that the one that took the longest to get on bloodworms seems to have IP's. I read the puffpedia entry on dosing them, and I'm doing all that correctly. He eats well now, but he isn't gaining weight. It's only been a week that he's been eating the worms, though so I don't know if that's normal. He's quite skinny looking down on him, even when his belly looks full. I have PraziPro and ParaGuard on hand, and fed worms soaked in PraziPro and dosed Paraguard. I don't know if it's okay to soak the worms in PraziPro but I did, so I'm hoping so. He will also eat krill so far, so if that will work better I can do that, too.
I'm a bit worried that it's too late to help him, I've read on some sites that when they get very skinny it can be too late. I know that he at least got some worm innards/meds but he seems much hungrier than usual today too.
Any help on treating the puffs and making sure he gets enough medication would be very much appreciated!
Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Forum rules
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
Read this before posting!!
Since this board has been up, we have found there are several questions that routinely get asked in order to help diagnose problems. If you can have that information to begin with in your post, we'll be able to help right away (if we can!) without having to wait for you to post the info we need.
1) Your water parameters - pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates and salinity (if appropriate). This is by far the most important information you can provide! Do not answer this with "Fine" "Perfect" "ok", that tells us nothing. We need hard numbers.
2) Tank size and a list of ALL inhabitants. Include algae eaters, plecos, everything. We need to know what you have and how big the tank is.
3) Feeding, water change schedule and a list of all products you are using or have added to the tank (examples: Cycle, Amquel, salt, etc)
4) What changes you've made in the tank in the last week or so. Sometimes its the little things that make all the difference.
5) How long the aquarium has been set up, and how did you cycle it? If you don't know what cycling is read this: Fishless Cycling Article and familiarize yourself with all the information. Yes. All of it.
We want to help, and providing this information will go a LONG way to getting a diagnosis and hopeful cure that much faster.
While you wait for assistance:
One of the easiest and best ways to help your fish feel better is clean water! If you are already on a regular water change schedule (50% weekly is recommended) a good step to making your fish more comfortable while waiting for diagnosis/suggestions is to do a large water change immediately. Feel free to repeat daily or as often as you can, clean water is always a good thing! Use of Amquel or Prime as a dechlor may help with any ammonia or nitrite issues, and is highly recommended.
Note - if you do not normally do large water changes, doing a sudden, large water change could shock your fish by suddenly changing their established water chemistry. Clean water is still your first goal, so in this case, do several smaller (10%) water changes over the next day or two before starting any large ones.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
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- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
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2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
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T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Does every meal you give have the meds in them?
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Yes, it does.
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Pufferpunk
- Queen Admin
- Posts: 32773
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 11:06 am
- Gender: Female
- My Puffers: Filbert, the 12" T lineatus
Punkster, the 4" red T miurus
Mongo, the 4" A modestus
2 T biocellatus
C valentini
C coranata
C papuan
Also kept:
lorteti
DPs
suvattii
burrfish
T niphobles - Location (country): USA, Greenville, SC
- Location: Chicago
- Contact:
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
You may need to switch IP meds. Different IPs respond to different meds.
You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes...
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
"The solution to pollution is dilution!"
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AquaMike
- Dwarf Puffer
- Posts: 89
- Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:47 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: *1 pea puffer (F)
*1 borneensis red-eye DP (M)
*1 palembang puffer - Location (country): CT, USA
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Good to know PufferPunk. Best of luck antelope.
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
I think I found some part or parts of the problem, and it may not all be parasite related. I first got him to eat dead food with krill and after he ate the worms a few times, I assumed he would be fine eating those. I don't think he has been eating them for a couple days now. He still seems very hungry. Put him in a small cup to eat by himself so I could monitor his food intake and tried krill. He ate the krill, eyeballs first. So I suppose it's back to feeding him krill for me.
Also, he gets shy when I give him snails and won't eat them when I'm watching. Does anyone else have this happen? Any other time I feed him, he follows my tweezers/hands around like a puppy.
Also, he gets shy when I give him snails and won't eat them when I'm watching. Does anyone else have this happen? Any other time I feed him, he follows my tweezers/hands around like a puppy.
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DMD123
- Fahaka Puffer
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2014 3:39 pm
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- My Puffers: Tetraodon baileyi (Hairy Puffer, named Gizmo)
- Location (country): USA
- Location: Lakewood, WA
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
antelope wrote: he gets shy when I give him snails and won't eat them when I'm watching. Does anyone else have this happen? Any other time I feed him, he follows my tweezers/hands around like a puppy.
They do have personality, dont they?300g Pearsei x1, Bala Sharks x 3, Dabola endli (Tinkisso river) x1, Ansorgii x1
65B Hairy Puffer
65B Angel fish x1, Monk tetra x7, BN Pleco x2
90G red devil
90G Trimac
46G Bowfront Community tank
30G Growout
65B Hairy Puffer
65B Angel fish x1, Monk tetra x7, BN Pleco x2
90G red devil
90G Trimac
46G Bowfront Community tank
30G Growout
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bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Krill needs to be kept as a treat, it has links to lockjaw in puffers. If he is eating worms and snails stick to those as a staple and use krill as a treat
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Oh, he doesn't like eating worms and eats way more snails than I can keep stocked. Are mysis shrimp okay if he will eat those?
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bertie 83
- Moderator
- Posts: 5298
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:28 pm
- Gender: Male
- My Puffers: lineatus R.I.P, South American puffer. Valentini puffer, porcupine puffer.
Non puffer
Danios, Tetras, Redtail Rasporas,
Harlequins, CAE's, Yoyo
Loaches, Clown loaches ,Eels, various shrimp, tangs,wrasses, damsels, chromis - Location (country): Brighton, England
- Location: brighton , england
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
Mysis is good
It's amazing how easy maintenance is. If done regularly and thoroughly
Re: Tips/tricks on treating IPs?
And another problem, he ate brine shrimp tonight, I walked away, and when I came out he was regurgitating all the shrimp. I didn't count how many he ate, and now he doesn't seem interested in food now.